Electric Car Charging – FAQ

Household outlets are not designed for sustained, heavy loads. Charging a car draws a high current for hours; the socket and the wiring in the wall can heat up, the contacts can loosen, the material can discolor or melt, and in the worst case a fire can start. Faults caused by overloaded outlets are a common issue in electricians' work. A wall socket: at most a temporary, rare emergency solution.

Typical warning signs: a heating outlet, a smell of burnt plastic, a melted plug, a charred terminal block, a softened cable sheath. Don't “wait it out”: stop the charging and have it inspected by a professional.

A wall charger is designed specifically for EV charging. It's installed on a dedicated circuit with properly sized cabling and protection, and the device continuously monitors temperature, leakage current, and voltage fluctuations. In case of a fault, it shuts off, preventing overheating and short circuits.

A dedicated circuit, properly sized cable cross-section, a circuit breaker, an RCD of the appropriate type for EV charging, surge protection, and, outdoors, adequate IP protection rating. The installer takes care of all this.

Because it's significantly cheaper and more convenient: the price of home electricity is typically about 25% of the rate at public DC fast chargers. It's also convenient — no need to visit charging stations, and the car is ready by morning.

Not recommended. Extension cords and coiled cables on a reel overheat very quickly and introduce additional failure points into the system. Only charge your car from a properly installed, fixed circuit.

• AC (alternating current): this is the “normal” charging used at home and at most public locations. The car's own charging electronics (on-board charger) convert the current, so the speed is determined jointly by the car and the wall charger (e.g. 7.4 kW single-phase, 11 kW three-phase).
• DC (direct current): “flash charging,” where the charger feeds current directly into the battery at high power (50–350 kW). Faster, more expensive, and puts more strain on the battery.

kW is a unit of power. A kettle or hair dryer is about 2 kW. An 11 kW wall charger is like running five kettles at once — for hours. That's why a dedicated circuit and proper protection are needed.

Roughly: battery capacity (kWh) ÷ charger power (kW).
Example: 60 kWh battery ÷ 11 kW ≈ ~5.5 hours (ideal case, without losses).

Frequent, high-power DC charging can accelerate cell aging (mainly due to thermal stress and chemical strain). Use it when traveling or when needed, but for everyday use, home AC charging is gentler.

AC's moderate power and thermal load are more favorable for battery health, so over the long term you can expect slower capacity loss than if you typically charged with DC.

Mostly cycling between 20–80%, charging to 100% only before a longer trip; avoiding extreme cold/heat, pre-conditioning the car (if it supports it), and using temperature-friendly charging modes.

The home kWh price is in most cases significantly lower than at public DC chargers — roughly a quarter of it, as a rule of thumb. At 10,000–15,000 km per year, this can add up to substantial savings.

Overnight scheduling, a car ready to go every morning, no queuing or detours.

Scheduling, consumption and cost tracking, automatic load balancing (the charger monitors the rest of the house's consumption and adjusts the charging power accordingly, so the main breaker doesn't trip), and cooperation with solar panels.

In Europe, Type 2 is standard for AC and CCS for DC. Older Japanese models sometimes use CHAdeMO. For home use, a Type 2 socket or a fixed, attached charging cable is typical.

Only a certified adapter approved by the manufacturer. DIY solutions can be dangerous and may void the warranty.

• Wall socket (not recommended): ~2.3 kW → 60 kWh battery ~26 hours.
• Single-phase 32 A (7.4 kW): ~8 hours.
• Three-phase 16 A (11 kW): ~5–6 hours (many cars can handle at most 11 kW on AC).
• Three-phase 32 A (22 kW): only if the car's onboard charger supports it; many models “cap out” at 11 kW.
• DC 50–150–350 kW: 10–40 minutes to “50–80%”, more expensive, and puts more strain on the battery.

A detached house, one wall charger, short cabling, sufficient existing capacity: after an on-site survey, the installer designs the dedicated circuit (cable, breaker, RCD, grounding, surge protection) and carries out the installation. The paperwork is typically simple.

An apartment building, several chargers in one place, a long cable run, a power upgrade, automatic load balancing, sub-meters, access management, solar integration. In these cases, an electrical designer prepares detailed technical documentation and sizing (protection selectivity, fire safety, operation).

If you're switching to three-phase (e.g. 11 kW), or the main breaker's amperage is too low, probably yes. The installer handles the application and sizing.

A few hours in a simple case. For a more complex project (upgrade/permitting), days to weeks.

For EV charging, an A-EV or Type B RCD is appropriate (the exact type is specified by the charger manufacturer), so that it also trips safely in the presence of typical DC components.

Adequate IP protection rating, UV-resistant cables, mechanical protection, and a position partly sheltered from precipitation. A design prepared for extreme weather is recommended.

Periodic visual inspection: check for damage, burn marks, loose screws, or contact faults. It's worth having a professional check it annually.

The charger monitors the house's real-time consumption (oven, heat pump, sauna, etc.) and adjusts the charging current accordingly, so you don't exceed the available amperage, trip the main breaker, or need an unnecessary upgrade.

Yes. Many devices support “sun-tracking” charging: it increases power when the sun is shining and reduces it when it's cloudy — maximizing your self-consumption.

The charger monitors the house's real-time consumption (oven, heat pump, sauna, etc.) and adjusts the charging current accordingly, so you don't exceed the available amperage, trip the main breaker, or need an unnecessary upgrade.

Yes. Many devices support “sun-tracking” charging: it increases power when the sun is shining and reduces it when it's cloudy — maximizing your self-consumption.

Don't occupy a spot without charging, move your car once you're done, handle the cable/connector gently, and leave the charging point clean.

Use a route-planning app; check power output, availability, and pricing. In cold weather, pre-warm the battery before departure if your car supports it — DC charging will be faster.

Yes — uncertified adapters and improper wiring can void the warranty and create a safety hazard. Always choose a certified device and professional installation.

Coordinate with the building's management/HOA, prepare a technical concept (power budget, cabling, automatic load balancing), and set up sub-metering and billing arrangements. Many buildings already have an established process.

Yes — uncertified adapters and improper wiring can void the warranty and create a safety hazard. Always choose a certified device and professional installation.

Coordinate with the building's management/HOA, prepare a technical concept (power budget, cabling, automatic load balancing), and set up sub-metering and billing arrangements. Many buildings already have an established process.

• Detached house, daily use: three-phase 11 kW wall charger, scheduling + automatic load balancing.
• Old wiring/low amperage: single-phase 3.7–7.4 kW, with room for future upgrades; automatic load limiting is useful.
• Apartment building, multiple cars: central distribution, smart charging across multiple points, sub-metering, access management — electrical design required.
• House with solar panels: solar-tracking charging, maximizing self-consumption.

• Charging time formula: kWh ÷ kW.
• Example: 77 kWh battery, 11 kW AC ≈ ~7 hours.
• Power illustration: 11 kW ≈ ~5 kettles running at once.
• Cost advantage: if the DC price per kWh is ≈ 4× the home rate, at 150 kWh of monthly charging, home charging can save ~75%.